Richmond, VA: More than the Jefferson

Going to Richmond? Now you have more hotel choices than the Jefferson. For something completely different—i.e., cheerful, fresh, fun—try Quirk.

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(photo courtesy of Quirk hotel)

Since Departures, CN Traveler, and Travel+Leisure recommended it, Mimi’s Travel File had to go to Quirk. It’s stylish and happy. Built in 1916 as a department store, Quirk’s windows are large and ceilings are high. Recommend room 515, a king suite with vast views of Richmond.

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In addition to its bar and restaurant, there’s an art gallery and stylish store just off of Quirk’s lobby. (photo courtesy of Quirk hotel) 

It has a pretty design palette that carries through from the lobby to the hotel rooms.

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Quirk’s happening rooftop bar (photo courtesy of Quirk hotel)

My sources tell me that nearby Graduate hotel also has a happening rooftop bar, called Byrd House.

Full disclosure: While I loved Quirk and would go back in a heartbeat, the housekeeping had some flaws (missing buttons on the remote, curtain stuck, phone that didn’t ring down to reception). When I brought them to the attention of the staff, they took notes, apologized and reduced my room rate. I plan to stay there again because I loved it.

Bonus: Quirk has valet parking, so you don’t have to mess with a parking lot.

See the Sights

So, now that we have our room squared away, let’s see my two favorite sites in Richmond…

  • St. John’s Church, circa 1741 and the site of Patrick Henry’s “Give me liberty or give me death” speech.
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St. John’s sits atop Church Hill, the first neighborhood in Richmond. And what a pretty neighborhood it is! Old, gorgeous houses large and small, and good views. (photo courtesy of St. John’s Church)

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George Wythe, signer of the Declaration of Independence and mentor to Thomas Jefferson, is buried in St. John’s Church’s graveyard. (photo courtesy of St. John’s Church)

  • The Virginia Museum of Fine Arts has an outstanding collection (esp. its art nouveau furniture), gorgeous garden, fab gift shop and two nice places to eat.
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Virginia Museum of Fine Arts (photo courtesy of VMFA)

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The Virginia Museum of Fine Arts’ garden (photo courtesy of VMFA)

Let’s Eat

And speaking of eating, where shall we dine? I highly recommend:

Brenner’s Pass in the hip, low-crime neighborhood, Scott’s Addition (architects’ offices, craft breweries, etc.). The food is amazing (the highly discerning James Beard Foundation likes it), decor mod and attractive, and service terrific.

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If you prefer a retro-fast food feel, I hear the burgers at nearby Boulevard Burger & Brew are stand-in-line-it’s-worth-it delicious.

For an old-timey box lunch to send you on your way once you check out of Quirk, go to Sally Bell’s.  “Inside each box is a happy meal from a better time,said Bon Appetit magazine. Works for me!

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Washington, D.C. Christmas

Christmas is Washington’s most wonderful time of the year. Why? No crowds (like during spring break), no overpowering humidity (like during the summer), and most important, distinctly DC sights that are all dressed up for “the festive season.” I am a native Washingtonian and have picked out our very best sights and described them here, as my Christmas present to you!

Downtown DC

Behold the National Christmas Tree at the White House! Note how perfectly perfect it is…almost too perfect to be real (though it is) or visually interesting…but you have to see it at least once.

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National Christmas Tree on the White House lawn

The very first National Christmas Tree was decorated in 1923, when “First Lady Grace Coolidge gave permission for the District of Columbia Public Schools to erect a Christmas tree on the Ellipse south of the White House…That Christmas Eve, President Calvin Coolidge walked from the White House to the Ellipse and “pushed the button” to light the 48-foot Balsam fir, as enthusiastic spectators looked on,” according to nationalchristmastree.org. Click here to read more about the history of the National Christmas Tree. To find out how to attend the National Christmas tree lighting ceremony, click here.

To tour the sumptuous Christmas decorations inside the White House, click here.

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Can’t get tickets to tour the White House at Christmas? No problem! Just order Laura Dowling’s book, A White House Christmas. Laura was the Chief Floral Designer at the White House during the Obama administrations. Her book will give you an up-close-and-personal look at the WH Christmas decorations, plus how to make some of them. Let’s look at pictures from it…

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The Diplomatic Reception Room at the White House, decorated for Christmas by Laura Dowling (photo courtesy of stichting kunstboek)

The gorgeous wallpaper in the Diplomatic Reception Room (above) was installed by Jackie Kennedy in 1961. For more on Jackie’s renovation of the DRR, click here.

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Laura Dowling does the Red Room: What could be more festive or elegant?! (photo courtesy of stichting kunstboek)

In her book, Laura takes us behind-the-scenes of the highly detailed,  year-long planning process for creating Christmas decorations befitting the White House.

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Laura Dowling’s Christmas tree in the White House’s Blue Room (photo courtesy of stichting kunstboek)

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This is the main hallway on the first floor of the White House, decorated by Laura and her team. (photo courtesy of stichting kunstboek)

The U.S. Capitol Christmas Tree is the Prettiest

The Capitol’s Christmas tree is the prettiest outdoor tree in DC. It stands alone in a peaceful place at the base of Capitol Hill. It doesn’t have the commercial, for-tourists feel of the National Christmas Tree at the White House. There are no crowds of admirers…I don’t know why. Gazing at its simple decorations with the U.S. Capitol as a backdrop is a lovely, quiet sight. When you turn your back to the Capitol, you will look down the National Mall at the Washington Monument.

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(photo courtesy of rainforestsislandsferry.com)

“The tradition of the Capitol Christmas Tree, or “The People’s Tree,” began in 1964 when Speaker of the U.S. House of Representatives John W. McCormack (D-MA) placed a live Christmas tree on the Capitol lawn. This tree lived three years before succumbing to wind and root damage…Since then, a different national forest has been chosen each year to provide “The People’s Tree.” (from the Capitol Christmas Tree website)

U.S. Botanic Garden: Trains & Plants

Just a few steps from the U.S. Capitol’s Christmas tree is the Botanic Garden. Every Christmas, they create a model train exhibit whose tracks are laced in and out of the fabulous plants in the BG. The US Botanic Garden is small and beautiful.  Go!

USBG holiday show - Holiday tree train detail“Take a trip across America as our annual holiday show, Season’s Greenings, showcases Roadside Attractions! In our model train show, trains will chug around, below, through, and above plant-based recreations of iconic sights from across the United States. This year, the theme is “Seasons Greetings: Roadside Attractions.” (from the BG website)

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The Botanic Garden even has a miniature of the new National African American Museum on the Mall

Sample itinerary: Downtown

  • Visit the trains at the Botanic Garden
  • Take in the quiet beauty of the Christmas tree at the base of Capitol Hill
  • Stop for a drink at the Willard Hotel, where “Kentucky Statesman Henry Clay first introduces the Mint Julep outside of Kentucky in the Round Robin Bar,” according to the history of the hotel on the WH’s website. It’s on Pennsylvania Avenue, of course!
  • Walk the Pathway of Peace to see the National Christmas Tree and state trees.
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lobby of the Willard Hotel

Georgetown

The Washington National Cathedral sits at the top of Wisconsin Avenue, which leads into Georgetown, a hop skip and a jump away, so let’s start here. If you don’t have the Christmas spirit, visit the Cathedral and you will get it! Its gorgeous decorations (the altar guild ladies have great taste and talent), charming Creche Collection (of nativity scenes from around the world, on display from late November to early January), and gift shop will infuse you with the spirit. The Joy of Christmas concert is a Washington tradition that is particularly festive, cheerful, uplifting, and beautiful in this glorious setting.

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The Washington National Cathedral

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The Washington National Cathedral

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Charming creches from around the world each reflect where they were made. The one above is from Bolivia, I believe.

Since you’re at the Cathedral and the Cathedral is so close to Georgetown, saunter on down Wisconsin Avenue towards the Potomac River to do a little…

Christmas Shopping, House Gazing and Merry-Making

  • Everards’ Clothing in the 1800 block of Wisconsin Ave has nice clothes for men and women, despite its somewhat austere website.
  • While Georgetown has it fair share of chain stores, plenty of boutiques abound. The 1600 block of Wisconsin Avenue is especially good. Patisserie Poupon is a nice little place in this block for a quick lunch. Look at the beautiful things (plates, serving pieces, jewelry, linens, and lots more) in A Mano
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A Mano boutique in Georgetown

Dine at 1789

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A long-time DC favorite, every table at 1789 is full at Christmas-time (photo courtesy of 1789 Restaurant)

Dine at wonderful, old 1789 Restaurant, right next to Georgetown University, on a night they have carolers (December 15-24). They are tuxedo-clad and stand in front of this fireplace…this is an important point because they don’t saunter from table to table, forcing you to smile encouragingly while staring at them for an entire song sung in front of your table. So festive and elegant! Plus, very good food and warm ambience.

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(photo courtesy of 1789 Restaurant)

Mt. Vernon

And last but not least, cross the Potomac River to visit our first president at Christmas at George Washington’s Mt. Vernon. Click through to explore Mt. Vernon’s numerous and varied Christmas-themed tours.

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(photo courtesy of George Washington’s Mt. Vernon)

Voici some fun facts about our first president and Christmas:

  • “44-year old George Washington made one of the boldest decisions in military history when he led his troops across the icy Delaware River on Christmas evening, 1776″ (from recent email from Mt. Vernon)
  • Click here for an intriguing list of GW’s whereabouts on various Christmases, including the detached kitchen of his burned-down boyhood home; on a ship returning from Barbados to Virginia; visiting an “Indian Queen;” and hauling in fish nets on the Potomac River. Did George ever sit still?!?
  • “On December 23, 1783, George Washington resigned his military commission in Annapolis and returned to Mt. Vernon in time for Christmas, bearing gifts for his family.” (from recent email from Mt. Vernon)
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(photo courtesy of stichting kunstboek)

Wishing you all a very Merry Christmas!

Seattle to San Diego Road Trip (part 4/4): California

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Carmel (photo courtesy of CarmelCalifornia.com)

Santa Cruz to Carmel (45 miles)

The drive along California’s coast from Santa Cruz to Carmel-by-the-Sea is about an hour. Stay at La Playa Carmel, a beautiful hotel whose elevated terrace overlooks its sumptuous gardens, pool and giant chess board.

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La Playa’s elevated terrace: Note the Pacific Ocean in the background

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La Playa

Daisies, fuchsia, nasturtiums, geraniums, Mexican salvia and many more flowers fill La Playa’s gardens.

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La Playa’s garden (note chessboard on the left)

Bike around Carmel’s peaceful streets, filled with charming houses with distinctive architecture in a variety of styles and gorgeous gardens. Click here for the story behind Carmel’s fairytale cottages, like those in the two photos, below. Such an interesting story!

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Someone actually lives in this storybook cottage! (photo courtesy of CarmelCalifornia.com)

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Carmel’s main street (photo courtesy of CarmelCalifornia.com)

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Frank Lloyd Wright-designed house in Carmel (photo courtesy of CarmelCalifornia.com)

Click here to read the interesting history of Carmel Mission (below).

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Carmel Mission, circa 1771 (photo courtesy of CarmelCalifornia.com)

Finished the day with a delicious dinner at fun and pretty Grasing’s

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Our best meal in Carmel (photo courtesy of Grasing’s)

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Grasing’s bar is warm, friendly & filled with casually stylish locals.

Returned to our cheerful, big room with a fireplace at La Playa.

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room at La Playa Carmel (note the Pacific Ocean view)

Carmel to Montecito (245 miles)

The drive along the Pacific Ocean from Carmel to Montecito is five hours along Highway 1. Such a DRAMATIC and BEAUTIFUL coast!

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You will drive over the much-photographed Bixby Bridge near Big Sur.

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Bixby Bridge

Montecito is a beautiful and rich town with big and diverse houses. Oprah has a house here; in fact, she is the largest land owner in the area. Montecito is the next town south of Santa Barbara, which is pretty but not particularly interesting.

Checked into the San Ysidro Ranch, which was stupidly expensive (cheapest room=$700=ours; no meals included; while pretty, our room was half the size of our $440 room in Carmel) but gorgeous gardens, including an extensive kitchen garden, and nice staff. Jack and Jackie honeymoon-ed at San Ysidro Ranch.

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San Ysidro Ranch’s charming main building

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gardens at San Ysidro Ranch

We lay by the pool alone here for three flawless hours…ahhh!

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Old Mission (founded 1786) in Santa Barbara

Drive into nearby Santa Barbara, visited its historic Mission, drive down State Street (its main street), and have a little cocktail at the Four Seasons Biltmore.

Montecito to La Jolla (210 miles)

The drive from Montecito to La Jolla is approx. 4 hours down Highway 1. The water is a blue/green and doted with surfers and some paddle boarders…SO California!

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(photo courtesy of CarmelCalifornia.com)

The water and beach are beautiful until you get to Malibu…famous Malibu, where the beach-side houses completely block the water views. Seriously claustrophobic. Let’s hope the rich and famous flock to Malibu because there is an enclave of fab houses somewhere there, though they were not evident to us. Plus,we encountered no traffic on our entire drive from Seattle through California…until we got to Malibu. From then on, the roads were more congested.

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the beach at Crystal Cove (photo courtesy of the Crystal Cove Conservancy)

We stopped by Crystal Cove along the way. Ever heard of it? Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, CC is a step back in time…to the time of luau parties with CEO’s mixing with beach bums and artists beginning in the 1920’s.

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(photo courtesy of the Crystal Cove Conservancy)

Think sunset cocktails in the 46 quirky cottages pieced together in the 1920’s out of salvaged materials…

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(photo courtesy of the Crystal Cove Conservancy)

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(photo courtesy of the Crystal Cove Conservancy)

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(photo courtesy of the Crystal Cove Conservancy)

…in 2001 when the California State Parks department evicted the residents, a proposal for a beach resort met with protests, at which point the parks department restored the cottages to their kitschy 1930’s and 40’s glory, and open 13 of them for overnight stays. Now referred to as the Crystal Cove State Park Historic District you can rent a beach cottage and pretend you are back in its luau party days (click here). Don’t you think this would be fun!?!

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(photo courtesy of the Crystal Cove Conservancy)

On the drive into La Jolla, you will see a reconstructed Middle Eastern desert village (low, one-story huts) up from the beach on the Pacific. It was built for training purposes by one a number of big military bases in and around San Diego, which is 14 miles from La Jolla. We drove through one of these bases (hundreds of acres, on the outskirts of SD) on either side of Highway 1.

We stayed at La Valencia in La Jolla, a peach-colored stucco grand dame. Built in the 1920’s, it hugs a hill in front of the park on the beach. Palm trees, Bougainvillea, flowering hedges, & pots of roses dot the grounds. Lovely, retro-glam pool!

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La Valencia in La Jolla

La Jolla is easy to see on foot and nice enough, although its abundance of tacky, tourist-town art galleries detract. Drive to the Hotel del Coronado (where “Some Like it Hot” was filmed) for lunch. The architecture is exaggerated and wonderful, and its location is very pretty but it is too big (600 + rooms). There are lines for the ladies’ room! However, we had a very nice lunch there, looking at the white sand, sparkling blue water, palm trees and people walking by.

San Diego is 15 miles from Mexico and the second largest city in CA.

End-of-Trip Observations

  • The trip from Seattle, WA to La Jolla, CA is 2,165 miles, traveling on Highways 101 and 1. We did the entire trip without interstates, except for a short part where we had no alternative. Most of this drive is on two lanes and uncrowded = a pleasure and probably did not add much to the travel time.
  • The people on the West Coast were way nicer and more laid back than those on the East Coast–consistently.
  • Surfers are everywhere along California’s coast…true to stereotype!
  • Washington, Oregon and northern California (north of San Francisco) have small populations.
  • The green of the NW coast is in stark contrast to the brown of the SW coast.
  • I can see why the NWesterners are “crunchy.” The natural landscape is so exaggeratedly beautiful (redwoods, mountains, beaches) that their focus is outdoors.
  • The most beautiful, polished art we saw on our entire trip was in Western Art & Architecture magazine in our room at Tu Tu T’un Lodge in Oregon. Well-executed “cowboy art” of landscapes and men on horseback and animals. Beautiful, sophisticated horses made of polished redwoods, river rocks and stones, lots of glass.
  • For most of our drive north of Malibu, the drivers were much more considerate than those on the East Coast.
  • In southern CA, we saw many fields of workers picking crops by hand—back-breaking!
  • We encountered little evidence of the history of the West Coast, except for the pretty Spanish missions (churches attached to monasteries) and not many of those.

Hang ten!

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(photo courtesy of the Crystal Cove Conservancy)